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Dragons Back 2023
The Build Up.
Another year, another week in Wales on The Dragon’s Back race.
2023 was my third attempt at this legendary race in as many years, all the others have been documented before. This year was no different to the others with its own unique set of circumstances, fun, horror, comedy and challenges. Where to begin…
Probably 2022 and the finish of DBR. Never again and all that, the words issued after every hard challenge. 2022 I came close, completing full days on day 1,3,4,5 and 6 in time on every day. Day 2 a fail after retiring on the climb up Rhinog Fawr. A retirement not a Time out and so an overall race DNF. I covered 224 miles and 50000 ft of elevation missing the 13 or so miles of the Rhinog on day 2.
Post the race, after recovery I started running again. 2023 had a few events already booked, GL3D in March, Brighton Marathon in April, UTS 100k in May and the Lakeland 100 in July.
Late in January 23 I started suffering from Plantar Fasciitis, a new injury for me that I’d never experienced. Long story short I managed it by not managing it at all. In March Fran and I go to Ourea Events GL3D. 3 days of running around the Lakes together completing about 50 miles and just over 10000ft of elevation on the Herdwick course, by day 3 I’m limping. Brighton follows and I was limping badly effectively using pain killers to run. I ran a PB at 3hrs 33mins which seems ridiculous but that’s what happened. After I could barely walk.
UTS next 100km across Snowdonia, 2 ascents of Snowdon and the chance to earn some UTMB stones. Still injured but used to popping pills by now. I shuffled round in 28 hours. Fran crewed me which was invaluable making it all easier. My foot was uncomfortable, it was hellishly hot but not a bad finish, about 4 hours behind my pals from Dragons Back 22.
The weekend after UTS we went to parkrun. Easy peasy , a quick 20 minute run on a Saturday morning. No problem. 200m in my heel starts to hurt and it gets really bad really quick. You’d stop right?? Wrong I’ll just keep going, I cross the finish in about 23 minutes and this time my body has had enough, walking is really really hard and I limp to a café for your usual coffee post Parkrun.
This makes me realise I’ve got to do something about my Plantar, it’s already had a massive impact on my training cutting my mileage and elevation in half compared to the prep for 22’s DBR by this time in 2022. I go to a Physio for the first time ever.
Lakeland 100 is in late July a month before Dragons Back. I am on the 100 and Fran is competing in her first Ultra doing the 50. I feel pretty good, I’ve followed the physios advice and had 3 or 4 physio sessions, the constant heel pain has cleared. In the end I withdraw from the 100 at mile 64 Howtown CP after 24 hours and 8 minutes. I’d suffered from an IT band and quad issue since mile 13, likely a case of too much too early but not a bad experience. My heel is ok and I recover quickly. Two weeks later I’m running in Dartmouth around the hills and have 2 good weeks with decent elevation, mileage and no pain.
2 / 8
My pals are getting ready for Dragons Back, the entry dates long gone but my mind wanders to it. I feel ok for the first time in months, maybe they will let me take part …. And so I call the event team, make my case entering a week before the race.
Dragons Back Day 1 2023.
My routine is set now, get to the castle early, stand on the start and get away up the first hill. That’s exactly what I did.
I met up with some pals, David Bland, Martin Clarke, John Roberts, Andy Lardner and Simon Motley all returning for a second year and met some new ones. The choir sang, Shane said some words , Fran waved and away we went.
This year the weather forecast was sun. I knew it was going to be hot and clear skies later in the day and wanted to make hay whilst the sun didn’t shine getting as many miles as possible along the route as quick as possible.
I didn’t rush and made a comfortable start arriving at CP1 Conwy Mountain 29 mins later. Easy running and really no different to 2022, all the CP’s went well and rolled by with no issue, I was eating about every 20 mins sipping water. I’d taken 2.5L from the start expecting a hot hard day. Food wise I was eating trail mix, fig rolls and jelly babies. In 1 bottle I had 500ml water/tailwind mix with 500ml water in the other and 1.5L of water in my vest bladder.
I planned to hit Ogwen CP5 cut off early, at least roughly the same time as in 2022 which would mean a 5 hr transit from the start. The run through to CP5 was relatively uneventful, it was warmer than 2022, we got buzzed by the mountain rescue helicopter around Carnedd Dafydd and I chatted to many new people as the miles went by.
Pen yr Ole Wen soon arrived and Tryfan beckoned. It looked as formidable as ever jutting out the ground but by now it has become an old friend and not the monster it once was. Hello again. Just starting the descent I bumped into Steve Evans who I’d trained with and who had been a volunteer on DBR 22. Steve took a snap of me looking in high spirits and it was true I was, the photo capturing the moment perfectly. Somewhere below Fran was waiting to see me for the first time on a Dragon’s Back race and I was looking forward to saying hi. Soon on the descent it struck me that it was getting hot, I’d expected this, it was bound to get hotter as we came off the hill, I’d drunk nearly all my water in an attempt to remain as hydrated as possible. I descended fairly quickly dipping my hat in the stream and headed for the road. By the time I was at the track to the road the heat really hit me and I started walking. It was far hotter than I thought. So I fast walked and soon saw Bev and Paul Tucker who cheered me on then Fran. Fran ran over and asked if I was ok, did I want to run? No!
We quick walked to the Support point, Fran encouraging me and making me feel a little better.
After the race Fran said she was shocked by the state of me when she saw me here, she thought I may throw the towel in. I didn’t have this in my mind, I may have looked like crap but other than the heat concern just wanted to get through the SP, climb Tryfan and get out the heat- that was my focus. It’s amazing the rapid change from the Summit to the valley!
Anyway at the SP I refilled my water back to 2.5L. I drank 500ml of water and also a small coke from my drop bag. I ate 2 x rice puddings, 1 x mandarin pots, a Snickers, a chocolate pancake and a small twix. I replenished my race vest with a few bits and bobs. I didn’t change shoes nor did I do any foot admin. I left CP 5 at 11.27 , 5 hrs and 27 minutes after the start after about a 10 minute stop. I was
3 / 8
maybe 10 minutes behind my 2021 time. Fran was just over the road watching me, I began the climb up Tryfan and waved cheerio, next target was Pen y pass.
Tryfan is not a hard climb, relentless steps and a scramble, this year had shades of 2021, not quite as hot. It did take ages, I climbed this in 1hr 5mins on DBR 22 but this year in the heat it took 1hr 30 minutes. That seems ridiculous but I didn’t feel spent at the top and quickly made the descent towards the stile and wall breaking my own Strava segment over this section of tricky descent. The weather remained clear and hot making the loose shale/mud scramble to the left of the Ridge and onto the Glyderau.
The Glyderau always impresses me and is always a challenge with the never ending broken jutting rock, it’s worth it though heading for well-known land marks, passing the Glyder Fach, Castel y Gwynt and on to Glyder Fawr and CP 7.
Tryfan summit to here takes 1hr 30 mins. I arrive here and meet Trelawny for the first time in person, he’s one of the RAW adventures recce gang, sat in the shade having a break. I’ve got a blister unexpectedly forming on my inner right heel. I hardly ever get blisters and decide to deal with it. That takes 5 minutes and is a welcome break. I should have checked my feet at the SP but never mind. I’m still eating, still taking water and feel ok. Still on good time for Pen y pass. On departing I notice some guys have gone the wrong way and scream and shout to try and get them back but to no avail. After a few mins they are gone and I continue.
Pen Y Pass is soon in view, I know the descent well and have no issue on the way in although I am at least 1 hour slower than in 21. The heat starts to build as I descend and I take it easy. Into the Water Point. Cas is waiting being jolly as always and Fran is here. I had over my water bottles to get them refilled and head into the shop/bar for a coke and pack of crisps.
I’ll admit here I don’t feel great, the heat is starting to take its toll but my mind is fully focussed on getting onto Crib. I know I talked to Fran, I have no idea what about and its soon time to go, I’m probably here for 10 mins maximum. Water fully refilled back to 3.5L from empty.
I leave 70 minutes ahead of cut off. Miles behind 2022’s time. Just as I pass the tracker a guy runs up and asks if I’m ok? Have I had plenty to drink? Yes yes I reply I’m fine. Go away is what I’m thinking and on I go towards Crib.
Again Fran fills this bit in. The guy was a medic, apparently I was zig zagging along the path here. After I left a spectator asked why did you let him go he can’ t focus his eyes? I don’t know about any of that I was focussed on Crib and Crib alone.
On to Crib Goch. With a system full of coke and a bag of crisps in my hand I was off making steady progress along Pyg Track. I dipped my cap into every puddle along the way so I must have been suffering to some extent. Just before the turn to Crib I sat and ate my crisps and had a long drink of water. Here I met someone and I can’t remember his name or number but we were fated to spend the next few hours moaning our way around the Horse shoe. The climb up to Crib was a blessed relief, the scramble in full shade and the breeze picking up as I climbed. I took just under 1hr 40 mins, my legs starting to feel weak by now, climbing was hard. As always the view from CP9 was great, Crib usually fills me with dread, I’ve always been a 3 points of contact crosser, this would be my 5th crossing since my first time on Dragons Back 21. In hind sight anybody who knows me would have asked has Paul had his brave pills? No 3 points of contact and a wary shuffle, nope not for me, I just stood up and strode across not a care in the world. This of course was a warning sign, my hazard perception had taken leave, I wasn’t bothered, the heat on race day really had got to me but I just
4 / 8
wasn’t aware of it. A volunteer at CP9 had mentioned that one more cut off remained – at the finger stone before Snowdon. 7pm. That was 2 hours away but I remember thinking that I might not make it, which again seems total madness as it’s really not far.
Over Crib and the climb up Garnedd Ugain, this year no mistakes I hang right and don’t have to make any leaps across gaps to save a minute or 5, unsurprisingly the cut off CP at the finger stones is reached in an hour, I pass 53 minutes ahead of cut off and reckon I’ve got 2 ½ to 3 hours until the finish. Mike James is on duty here, takes a pic of me and says he hasn’t seen any of the guys I started with this morning. That is very concerning, where are they all?!? The short climb to summit Snowdon is hard on the legs, I’m recognising for the first time that I’m really drained but not worried with time to spare. Down the Watkins path and the last big climb of the day up Y Liliwedd. This is not my favourite climb ever, the path is indistinct although I know you can just scramble along the nose of the ridge, either way works. The chap I mention earlier at Crib has caught me and is suffering from cramps. I stop for a drink and a bite to eat before the climb. Trail mix and some tail wind. It stays down about 10 seconds and then up it comes puking onto the rock, another convulsion and everything else follows. Oh dear not good at all. I sip water to clear my mouth swallow and up that comes.
Ok F*%k it I think, there is less than 3 hours let’s just get in. My new pal doesn’t exactly know the way so we stick together and follow the cairns, I’m glad of the company , talking takes my mind of the worry that is now creeping in. Just before the summit I spot John Roberts (Migsy) 100 m behind. I’m very surprised, John is so much better than me on these hills. He’s a native Welshman and knows the hills so well, a top top man. I shout are you ok? He replies he’s dead on his feet, he looks ok, better than I feel. John is contouring slightly below us but looks to be going ok, we have just summited taking the recommended route that I know. We are passing along the ridge now, spectacular views and I feel better and begin to run again despite the empty tank. A group catches us and I tell them to pass but they say they are unsure where the CP is so elect to follow as its clear I know the way. We pass the time talking at a steady jog and soon reach CP 12 at Galt y Wenallt crest the small hump and there is camp below. Hoorah!
Now just the steep descent to go. I dread this, every year I’ve fallen here multiple times. The group still seems unsure and again they don’t pass although I say I won’t be rushing so we make steady to slow progress soon reaching the rocky slippy woody area. Its dusk so I go to head torch, I don’t want to trip here at all costs.
Of course that’s exactly what happens and it’s a really bad fall. Somehow I slip try to catch myself with a pole, it snaps and I go down like a ton of bricks. A perfectly placed rock meets the side of my head just above my ear with a resounding slap.
I’m out, seconds only but out, a sensation like being back in the room and puzzling what room? I remember the crack like when you bang two halves of a coconut shell, pain and a brief flash of oh fuck no. Seconds later because I’m still falling I’m awake as I hit something else. The group is already around me, I’m dazed and raise my hand to the side of my head my ear is cut up and head throbbing, I’m searching for blood and stick my finger in my ear. Nothing. Everyone is concerned ‘were you out?’ , That was a loud smack? Did you hit a rock?
I of course tell everyone I’m ok I just need a minute, I’ll catch up. I’m thinking please just go away and don’t tell anyone. Crazy but that’s all I care about. Gradually they go as I convince everyone I’m ok. I am ok apart from a throbbing headache and a snapped pole and manage to get up.
5 / 8
Carefully I’m off down the hill, over the bridge and onto the road. Here a mate of mine catches me – Steve Chamberlain. I’m so surprised to see him. Steve is a far better Ultra runner than me, someone I admire and yet here he is. I also meet for the first time Lizzy Gatherer who is a great pal of my Dragons back mate Kevin Munt. I expected her to be long finished and we joke that she needs to stay behind me as Kevin wouldn’t expect that. Its nice to see some folk and nice to realise that although I’m much slower than last year it seems so are others who are far more capable than me.
I let everyone go and walk along the road, up the short climb and gather my self for a jog into the finish. As I come in I remember that the finish has a live camera which in previous editions I’ve always forgotten about and think what can I do now I’ve remembered? Might as well make a show for the supporters who undoubtably are watching me. So as I come in I do a wiggle dance, find the camera and scream ‘I fucking did it Yeah!’. Little do I know the Camera man videos all of this and I end up on the day 1 Dragons Back highlights playing the fool.
That’s it Day 1 done. Over the line at 21.10, 110minutes slower than the previous year. I’m very dehydrated, my head is throbbing , I’ve a gash on my knee and a chunk out of my elbow from the fall but I’m back and smiling.
Day 1 aftermath
I was on course for 15 hours 10mins. I carried and drank 7.5L of water. 125ml of coke at Ogwen, 500ml Coke at Pen Y Pass. I didn’t eat everything available to me, it was too hot and food wouldn’t go in during the afternoon due to sickness. As soon as I got in a grabbed my admin bag and went for food. I struggled to eat and couldn’t clear my plate. Food is fuel, there is no way I pushed enough back in at tea time. I was cautious of being sick again, luckily with the physical pressure and heat gone what I ate stayed put. Time was also ticking, after an hour of eating I needed to wash, prep kit and get to bed as a 4.30 am start is needed to get away for 6am.
That’s what I did. Went and refilled my water in the vest, cleaned teeth, went to the loo, no joy there an still massively dehydrated then off to the tent. Strip wash, new clothes on and vest kit repacked for day 2. I crossed the line at 9.10 and finally got into by sleeping bag at 11pm. Watch and torch on charge next to me. The tent was still busy as the guys appeared, Migsy was already in overtaking me after I’d seen him, Andy gone home , T/O at pen y pass Martin in bed- T/O at pen y pass, Dave arrives late at 10 ish T/O at the finger stones and still needing to eat and do all his admin. So of 5 friends who started day one, 2 are still in and 3 are out of the main race. Brutal. The tent doesn’t go quiet until well past midnight and I don’t sleep. I estimate I had maybe 90 minutes sleep.
Dragons Back Day 2 2023.
4 am
I start getting up, I’ve had enough lying still not sleeping, sweating and aching. I’m fairly sure Migsy next to me is awake but regardless I’m getting up. Shuffle into the tent central area, torch on and begin the prep for the day. My admin is usually good and this morning I’m ok, washed from the night before I just need to check my feet, tape them, get my socks on and pack the main and drop bag. None of this takes long. As usual I apply Anti chafe to my feet and repair the blister tape on my heel. Pack my kit away, check my vest and throw the whole lot outside. I cant find my spare pole but its somewhere and figure it will appear soon enough.
6 / 8
By 0430 I’m heading to the food tent and the main admin tent – the lights are on and I can recheck all my kit before breakfast. I’ve got my admin bag so can sort any eventuality. The food tent opens early, I have my usual breakfast, beans, hash browns, bread, an apple and a brew. In hindsight not enough food but all I can manage. I neck a bit more water and by 0515 I’m back at the tent. My lost pole appears, main bag is packed and the whole lot goes to kit check. I’m first there and spend 10 minutes waiting. By 0530 my bags are gone and kit check is complete, I’m very surprised to be asked for waterproof trousers, 300g jacket and bivi bag. I suppose people might try and not take these with the forecast weather.
We have a brief in the start tent regarding an extra 30 minutes course time when you make the Support point Cut off at Cym Buchen, but you have to get there at 14.45 still, no extra time unless you make the support point.
Day 2 is going to be hard. The forecast is hot again, high winds on the tops. I know I haven’t eaten enough, I am defiantly not hydrated. Again I’m carrying 2.5L and approx 1500 cal in my vest. I feel ok for all this, positive, time will be tight but I know the schedule I need to keep and know the route well enough. I plan to make the best time I can until the sun hits.
I’m away for 6am on the dot 3rd or 4th across the start and make good use of the tarmac running with Migsy and Martin Clarke. Both gradually pull ahead, by the time we leave the road for the ascent to Cnitch I’ve lost them both. I am expecting to summit at about 8am. The route there is a gradual climb across low moor and fell and the climb is hard, by the scramble I’m being overtaken by a lot of folk but my watch tells me I’m on schedule. I summit at 8.10 , five minutes behind last years’ time so ok and make a bum sliding descent to rejoin the route.
The next few miles are what I think of as the Moelwyn transit, passing undulating ground heading for the twin summits. I felt pretty bad here and struggled up a couple of grassy hills before reaching the climb to Moelwyn Mawr. By now the sun was fully up and the wind had picked up gusting to around 30kph, enough to blow you left to right on the climb, I slogged up and more or less held position with everybody else climbing summiting at 9.27. 13 minutes behind 2021. Next up Moelwn Bach. I was overall feeling positive and wanted to tick off these climbs and get into the water point as soon as possible, the wind continued and again I summited in good order. I decided to take a break and have something to eat and drink . I summited at 9.46 and so was now 34 minutes behind 2021’s schedule. I ate and drank a long slug of water/tailwind. This was like a gut bomb and I felt it instantly, 10 seconds later I threw the lot up and thanks to the 30kph wind it flew straight back into my face. Alarm bells started ringing , this cannot be happening again!
I know the route off the hill to CP 5 at the water point pretty well, it’s all downhill and not particularly hard, I expected to make reasonable time. I was by now aware I was behind but reasoned that I could make time later in the course where last year I’d got horribly slowed in the ferns just past lake Trawsfyynydd along the leat.
I’m soon down by the Dam and making for the path off the hill towards the railway, my feet are really sore and I’m slow, I’m also not eating just managing to sip water. At the CP stile across the line I bump into Russell Bentley who is clapping us all through, a guy just in front doesn’t have a cap and Russell gives him his which was a very kind gesture. Russel tells me its all down hill from here to the water point which I know is sort of true. I’m pressing on now trying not to loose anymore time, sipping water but completely unable to eat. The next few miles are a blur, before long I’m on the tarmac and heading for the CP which I believe is a cut off at 12 o’clock. Fran is waiting to see me at
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Maentwrog and I’m desperate not to T/O before I see her, it would be unbearable. As I approach I can see a lot of runners at the CP sitting on the wall opposite, its hot now down in the valley, the heat has built as I’ve come down and its effecting me quite a lot. Cas welcomes me in and I hand over all my water bottles and sit on the wall. A follow runner remarks I look awful, I explain I’ve been sick and kindly she gives me some S Caps to try and get some electrolytes back in me. I manage to eat a small snickers whilst I’m sat, sort my water, time check realising I’m still behind and notice I’ve caught Martin Clarke my tent mate up again.
Steve Chamberlain is here although I never saw him. A few days after the race he told me that I looked absolutely terrible here. Steve retired from the full race here and continued all week on the Hatchling. Its funny because I didn’t appreciate it myself I just wanted to get on with it.
I left CP5 at 11.27, 22 minutes behind my schedule and it turns out 53 minutes ahead of cut off.
Fran is waiting at the road junction at Maentwrog, I’m very glad to see her and she walks along with me as I make my way through the village, I think she’s concerned and tells me I’m behind which I know but I’m quite confused by now and some doubt is creeping in. I think I said something to the tune of ‘ I wont continue if I T/O at Cwm Bychan. I still believe I can make it but time is short and I know I’m running out of gas.
Onto the road climb out of Maentwrog which goes ok, easy tarmac with nothing to hurt the feet, I’m focussed on making some time along the new route section which bypasses the area I lost time to in 2021. So I spend my time walk/running trying to stick to 5 minutes running, 5 minutes fast walk. Paul Jenkins appears offering support. Paul was a tent mate last year, completed DBR and is a top mate, he tells me to get a grip and speed up – 8km to go. They are hard km’s though, the ground is saturated and it is slowly shredding my feet as I try to claw time back.
Eventually I hit the Taith Ardudwy track, I am suffering and slowing badly realising that I’ve still got to pass Llyn Mawr and climb out of the boggy area to the Stile. I’m watching the time tick, mentally calculating if I can make it but suspecting I’ve lost too much time, my feet are howling, I keep slipping all the strength ebbing from my legs, then I get stuck in a bog, it looks like nothing but as I step my legs go in up to my knees. It takes 5 minutes to dig my leg out, I just cannot pull the fuckers out and I’m raging trying not to loose my shoes. Climb to the stile above the low ground and my watch ticks over to 14.45.
I am out. Once again I’ve crashed out the race approximately 1.5 k from the support point. I knew it was coming for the last 30 minutes but just kept going, refusing to quit like I did at Lakeland 100, refusing to quit like I did on day 2 last year which ultimately cost me a Dragon. Maybe I’ve kicked the quitting habit. I felt strangely ok, I’d given it everything and left nothing in reserve. Now just a walk in along some saturated ground and a call to Fran who isn’t going to be at the Support point. So I painfully walk , now I’ve stopped my feet are screaming and legs feel dead. It takes about 30 minutes for the support point to appear and I make it to the descent.
Here I see a figure waving, its Fran. I lift my pole and wave back and its just too much, I start crying like a kid, can’t contain it and feel so bad. Bad for dragging her here, hijacking our planned holiday and failing again, 3 years of trying without success, time, money and effort year after year. It’s an overwhelming feeling. I have to hobble down the hill to meet her and try to get a grip. She as always is massively supportive, never once has she ever been less and I limp into the SP, let the guys know I’m retiring and go and sit in the stream.
8 / 8
2023 was all about completion, I had and have no interest in the Hatchling course, that’s not to belittle anyone who takes that route, we all have our own reasons for running, mine was completion and nothing less. I had done the course in 2022 and didn’t need to see it all again.
Day 6
That was the end of my 2023 attempt, for the next few days Fran and I spent time in Wales. We spectated day 3 cheering on Migsy who’s race came to an abrupt end due to the heat. Visited Elan valley, cycled the reservoir and clapped the guys and gals through the Support point on day 4. Stood at the Bakery on Day 5 in Llandovery cheering old friends and new and walked to the top of Pen y Fan in the sun.
On the day 5 of Dragons Back it occurred to me whilst clapping at Llandovery that maybe I could still run day 6. I’d originally been invited to run day 6 as a finisher from 2022. The question was asked and the event team said yes I could so in some small way my part in 2023s event wasn’t quite over.
I arrived at the Day 6 start 0730, checked in and was transported to the Support point at Trelewis. Here I set off at midday (after a brief interlude to clap legendary returning runners from 2022 and Dragon slayers Paul Jenkins, Sam Morris and Bev Tucker through the support point) to run into the finish at Cardiff castle- something we couldn’t do in 2022 due to the death of The Queen. I left with a horde of hatchling runners and proceeded to cover the 20 miles in just over 4 hours. Along the way I clapped, cheered and chatted to everyone I passed, pleased to see some people fulfilling their dreams and heading to a full DBR finish. On relatively fresh legs the run was easy despite the heat, I stopped briefly at the water point pub , saw Fran who had been waiting on me for hours , had a coke and a sandwich then continued on. It was a very different experience to 2022. It took me 4 hours 10 mins compared to 7 hours and was a pleasure to take part in. Little known to me my tracker wasn’t working so my appearance at the finish was a surprise to the commentator Matt. He realised it was me and we chatted and shook hands after I’d hugged Fran. That was it Dragon’s Back Race over after 3 years.
Congrats to all who completed in whatever form, thanks to the event team, my running pals and as always to Fran for putting up with this nonsense for so long. What adventures await who can say but I look forward to seeing you all on the trails.
